With a subtropical climate, and a unique setting, the island of Madeira, nicknamed the Pearl of the Atlantic, is a little oasis made of the ancient forests, high mountains, and beautiful beaches. The island is located at 1.5 hours – flying distance from Lisbon, and offers a huge array of activities. If you like being outdoors, this rugged and picturesque island is for you!

Between the beauty of the sea, and the magic of the forest, you can take in the majesty of the high peaks, the million years old Laurissilva forest, the waterfalls, the rugged cliffs, and the blue of the Atlantic. I knew nothing about all this before heading to this secluded island, but, before landing in Funchal, the capital of Madeira, I knew I was going to love the place.

Our first day in Funchal started with a coffee. Between the sea and the mountains, the balcony was the perfect spot, a gem of our stay. The gentle balmy sun caressed our souls while sipping the coffee, taking in the new day.

We planned to rent no car while visiting Madeira, and, getting a hotel where we could walk some of the distances was the key of our stay.

Avenue do Mar would do the trick, a scenic pathway where we admired the cruise ships, the architecture of the adjacent buildings, and the entire city practically, spread across on all the surrounding mountains.

With a history of over five centuries, since early Portuguese settlers colonized the island, Funchal has become a very prosperous city, a port of call for so many sailors and travelers. The modern Funchal is one of the safest and cleanest cities in Europe. The small and cozy alleys, the cobbled streets make the city very attractive.

Funchal is a very walkable city. There are a number of walking tours, and for some reason we picked the Historical Walking tour organized by the Jesuit’s College of Funchal. Things have changed a lot in this 500-year-old city, but remnants can still be found, and stories to be told. Whether you enjoy to feast your eyes on the old architecture, or to have lunch in an outdoor patio, you will find much more in the Old Town. The endless supply of streets and alleys are lined with lights, painted doors, water fountains, and different architectural styles. Santa Maria street is one of the most famous streets, where a recent artistic project took place, the Painted doors.

But the plazas and the small boutiques were not the only ones that captured our attention. We knew that the scenic slopes in the background of the city is home of some to some of the beautiful gardens of the island. Among the incredible greenery, Monte Palace Tropical Garden gained its fame. Although December is the beginning of winter in Madeira, we still got to see some of the flowers, the Japanese garden, and so many iconic azulejos, sharing the historical story of the Portuguese kings and their most important achievements.

While Madeira is the ideal holiday destination to be enjoyed all year-round, December had a perfect type of temperature for us, all day. No wonder it was also nicknamed The Island of Eternal Spring.

The end of December can be very busy, as some people prefer this time of the year. Christmas Market can be very entertaining, because several events take place every night. The Portuguese can be very particular about their religion, and several customs can be observed this period of time. We enjoyed watching the traditional dances and the costumes, as well as the Native scenes present everywhere in Madeira.

Discovering the local gastronomy is another reason to visit Madeira. We are always willing to try a new dish, letting our taste buds experience new sensations. The first food we experienced was the roasted chestnuts, cheap, fresh and delicious, right on the waterfront walkway.

We’ve never realized there are so many fruits that can grow in Madeira, and we learned a bit of everything in Mercado dos Lavradores, the farmers’ market.

Read more: Top 10 local food you need to try in Madeira

Despite its small surface area, the geographical formation of Madeira offers a huge variety of landscapes and microclimates. The day we noticed the top of the mountains were covered in heavy clouds, we dropped the plan of not renting a car, deciding that it was time to explore the west side of the island. Playing by ear, we drove west, trying to stop at any point of interest or viewpoint along the way.

I fell in love instantly, once I saw the colourful buildings cascading down the hills along our drive, filling the ravines, and laughing in the sunshine. They reminded me of the colourful Cinque Terre we visited years ago.

Several side streets were closed due to the constructions, and driving on the Highway only got us from one tunnel to another. We soon passed some of the attractions we had in mind, and we stopped in Madalena do Mar. A good place to stretch our legs and walk one of the Banana routes from the neighbourhood. Although we’ve seen banana trees before, this was our first time we walked through a plantation. Interesting to see these smaller and sweeter Madeiran varieties of bananas growing locally on the island. Banana production is an important part of the agriculture of Madeira, occupying about 15% of the utilized agricultural area; there are about 3000 banana growers on the island, who export about 85% of the harvest to mainland Portugal.

Praia da Calheta was just a stone’s throw away. Not very busy at this time of the year, it’s certainly very popular during the summer.

We never planned to drive along Madeira’s rugged West coasts, but suddenly we found ourselves with nothing but the ocean on one side and the rugged shoreline, and majestic cliffs on the other. Paul do Mar is only a sample of this beauty, a place where we left our dreams drifting with the wind, and hopes with the sunshine.

Pristine lands dotted with beaches, towering cliffs, verdant scenery, rugged and winding coastlines, hundreds of hiking and walking trails, all provide the ideal environment for as many outdoor adventures as one is up for. The Natural Pools of Porto Moniz are one of the main attractions of the north coast of the Island of Madeira. Of volcanic origin, the natural setting of these pools allows the constant entry of the sea water, an ideal place to take a dip, if not a good swim. We found a playful ocean, with big waves crashing off the rugged wall. Few adventurous and brave people, not intimidated by the strength of the wind or the dramatic look of the sky took their courage to go in the cold waters of one of these pools. Safe enough from the snapping waves, and dodging behind the scattered rocks, the swimmers checked off their bucket list, eventually.

The tiny triangular houses of Santana became widely known for their peculiar beauty and unicity. The preservation of these typical houses become a heritage of great value for the municipality, and today they are among the most popular tourist attractions in the entire archipelago. Santana was awarded the distinction of Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2021, a wonderful place to get to know this natural heritage better.

Read more: Top 10 drinks you need to try in Madeira

Founded in 1420 by three Portuguese explorers, they named the island Madeira, meaning island of wood, due to its dense forests. An island where two-thirds of the forest is protected, and where the largest survival Laurissilva forest in the world is located. And indeed, green can be intoxicating, a paradise for those who love to spend time in nature. And so, we took advantage of a few of these hundreds of hikes. Levada do Caldeirao Verde was our choice, a relaxing walk in these primordial woods.

Located over 1,000 km away from mainland Portugal, Madeira boasts a wide range of landscapes. Discovering the East coast is a like journey back in time. It was in 1419 when the Portuguese navigators Joao Goncalves Zarco and Tristao Vaz Teixeira found this island, setting foot on the territory that is Machico today. As the historic birthplace of the island, Machico preserves a unique cultural and natural heritage. However, there is a legend about an English lady Anne of Arfet who found refuge here, together with Robert Machim, a legendary knight of the court of King Edward II of England. It is said that Machico was named actually after the name Machim.

Machico was our base for Vereda da Ponta de Sao Lourenco. Shaped by the wind, water and time, the easternmost tip of the island (nicknamed the Dragon’s Tail) is a must for anyone visiting Madeira. Which is why the trail was quite crowded at the time we visited. But if you are in no rush, Ponta de Sao Lourenco offers a unique type of scenery, with panoramic views of the north and especially south of the island. This volcanic peninsula is three km long, and is a gem for geology enthusiasts. With no trees, and only few bushes, this peninsula is in a sharp contrast with the rest of the island. Still, we could observe some of the rare plants and diverse fauna across these barren lands.

Home to so many microclimates, high mountains surrounded by a beautiful sea, Madeira is the perfect place to relax, to admire nature, or to learn about a new culture. With more than 200 Levadas (hiking trails following the water canals) plus 30 Veredas (mountain or coastal paths), Madeira’s hiking network totals over 2000 km of hiking trails, a paradise for nature lovers. While all trails cross different parts of this stunning landscape, and each of them outstand the other one, the most renown trail remains Pico to Pico. The hike that crosses three of the highest peaks in Madeira caught our attention, and is certainly another popular attraction on the island.

Read more: A hike to remember, Pico to Pico

Getting to Madeira

By plane – the international airport located in the city of Santa Cruz is the main gateway to and from the region. From Lisbon, the journey takes about 1.5 hrs. The shuttles from the airport are not very reliable, and taxis are relatively expensive. Bolt is available in Madeira, although pretty scarce off season.

By ship – the Port of Funchal is one the route of the major international cruise ships

Driving in Madeira

It is advisable to rent a car well in advance, to obtain good deals, or small cars.

Driving the steep mountains in Madeira can be truly exhilarating. Be prepared for narrow, and winding streets, many tunnels where the GPS signal is lost, detours, and lack of enough parking spots in busy places. If you want full autonomy and to visit remote places, then you need a car (rented, taxi, or Bolt), as not all buses serve the entire island.

Busing in Madeira

Although we were overwhelmed at first (with maps, timetables, and the number of the companies), busing is pretty easy in Madeira, if you have a cell phone. Except for the tunnels, cell service is good everywhere, you just need to use Google map, add your route, and select By Bus. You will see where the bus stops are, the frequencies, distances, and times. Although some of them can be late, they run quite accurately, are clean and cheap (1.95 Eur pp for 1 ride in the city/urbano paid at the driver. Long-distance/interurbano is charged per distance). But still, buses don’t go everywhere, especially in the middle of the island. There is always the option to combine busing with guided tours, and/or taxi.

Best time to visit Madeira

Without a doubt, summer is the most popular time to go to Madeira. December through New Year is also popular, but there are all kinds of events and festivals throughout the year which is great.

Weather wise, the south of the island has the mildest weather. Wear layers in the mountains, and north of the island where is more humid than the rest.

Although we only visited the island for a week, there are so many more places to see and activities to choose from.

Tip(s) of the day:

• There are three ways to get to Monte (Funchal), either to visit Monte Palace Tropical Garden, Botanical Garden, or the center of the district: by bus, by cable car, or on foot. Or any combination; Or taking one of the Monte Toboggans Sledges when returning to Funchal, if you want to have more fun;
• The weather in Madeira can be unpredictable, especially in the mountains. Wear layers, good hiking boots, eventually a hat. Water, snacks and a camera if desired;
• Check online for the trail condition and/or closures before making plans to hike in the mountains;
• There is no public transportation in the mountains (except for Ribeiro Frio). You can either take a guided tour, a transfer, or a taxi; or hitchhike;
• All the hikes we did were free, except the entrance to Ponta de Sao Lourencois 1 EUR, which you will have to pay using a website, before entering the trail. I would have happily paid more if we could have paid in an easier way, without being necessary to create an account and provide all our information.

~ Visited in December 2023