Hiking the Dragon’s Tail: Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

Nicknamed the “Dragon’s Tail”, the easternmost tip of Madeira is one of the most curious and unique parts of the island.

After hiking the highest peaks of the island, and one of the greenest paths in the middle of laurissilva forest, Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço just seemed to us out of this world. Famous for its rugged coastlines and geological features, this peninsula was bound to impress us right from the start.

Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

We arrived in Baia d’Abra where the trail starts in the late morning. The sun was shining and it was unusually warm outside, for December. We were immediately in awe by the vast array of undulating crests, and after walking a bit, a quick glance at Ponta de São Lourenço gave us a hint of what was going to come.

Ponta de São Lourenço

Stretching for nine kilometers, Ponta de São Lourenço, along with two more islets at the end of this peninsula form a protected area since 1982. They are part of the Natural Park of Madeira and home to some rare plants and a diversified fauna. Exposure to harsh winds makes this peninsula have a semi-arid climate, with low or non-existent vegetation, contrasting so much with the rest of the island.

Read more: Discovering Laurissilva forest: Levada do Caldeirao Verde

Ponta de São Lourenço trail

The entire landscape of Madeira is characterized by extremely rugged terrain, dominated by calderas, deep ravines and ridges. But this northeastern tip of the island is so unique from a geological perspective, overflowing with rolling slopes on one side and tall sheer cliffs on the other. A place where earth and sea merge together, where water, wind and time have created a symphony of raw beauty.

Various rock formations, spikes of another world

A heaven for geologists, this peninsula with volcanic origin is mostly made of basalt, but with some limestone sediment formations. The headland’s geology consists of pyroclastic rocks crossed by numerous basalt dykes. All these rock formations, and structures provided us some entertainment. The various minerals and structures coming up in layers or spikes gave us the impression that the place is otherworldly. And so they are if you think that some of these date back from 100,000 years ago.

The stressed crust at the edge of the peninsula
Thick sequence of layered lava
Basalt dyke

The fragile vegetation and unstable rocks encouraged people to stay on the narrow path, and soon we were rewarded with few lookout points.

Getting out into the wild and being surrounded by nature is the best medicine for body and soul. We found a quiet spot, a little sanctuary and happy place, all in one. Once again, I was so happy with our choice to visit Madeira, it filled our hearts with good vibes and energy!

Read more: How to spend a week in Madeira

The southern cliffs of Ponta de São Lourenço peninsula

A wide range of twisted rock formations, torn apart from another world made dramatic appearances from time to time, while towering cliffs ruptured by a variety of dykes and other relentless forces of nature make the surreal landscape a natural setting we’ve never seen before.

Read more: A hike to remember: Pico to Pico

Caldera along Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

The winding path is paved in some sections, and some wooden steps make the walk quite comfortable in few places. The remaining of the trail is simply made of tuff and volcanic soil, which required our attention most of the time. Wire fences have been installed in those exposed areas, however, people can go further more to the edge of the cliffs if they feel more adventurous. The high cliffs pose huge risks, making it important to stay on the marked trail actually, and not only for the personal safety, but also for the preservation of the rock foundation and local flora, and I was surprised to see few of people at the top of a cliff.

Natural Park of Madeira, flora and fauna

Greenfinch

After few more spectacular turns, we reached Casa do Sardinha, a cozy small restaurant surrounded by palm trees, like an oasis in the heart of Ponta de São Lourenço.

Casa de Sardinha

From here, we had the option to go continue to Ponta do Furado, the highest point in Ponta de São Lourenço, but we chose to retrace our steps and return home for an early dinner in Machico.

Read more: Top 10 local food you need to try in Madeira

Ponta de São Lourenço landscape

Tip(s) of the day:

  • Starting from Baia d’Abra, Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço is 3 km long (6 km round trip) and is rated moderate. It took us almost 4 hours in total with several breaks along the way;
  • The weather in Madeira can be very unpredictable, and especially very windy at the tip of this peninsula. Wear layers, good hiking boots, a hat and sunscreen, as there is no shade along this trail;
  • Bring plenty of water, as there is no source of water until the end of the trail. Casa do Sardinha sells food and drinks, but tends to be quite expensive (as are the pay toilets);
  • Although the trail may not be suitable for people suffering from vertigo, I felt very safe all the way along this trail. Stainless-steel ropes follow the trail where needed, offering safety and security;
  • You can either take a guided tour, Uber, or a taxi to reach Baia d’Abra, but you can also take the public transportation. If you are using your own car, parking could be an issue, but I noticed all the cars were parked along the street;
  • Entrance fee is 1 Euro. You cannot pay with card, or cash, but only through a website. Although they provide you a hotspot, where you can log in, it is very difficult to create an account on the spot, under the scorching sun. It would be advisable to pay in advance, however no one asked us to show the proof of payment along the trail;
  • Stay on the path – Ponta de São Lourenço is a protected natural reserve, home to many native plants. Be sure you stay on the designated path and avoid climbing in dangerous places;
  • Best time to visit: We visited Ponta de São Lourenço in December, and were surprised by the amount of people we found along the trail. I think the early hours in the morning would have been better, however, the trail is quite long, and people tend to spread out. We were very lucky weather wise, but during the winter months, the hike can be more challenging – better to check the weather forecast and plan accordingly.

~ Visited in December 2023

37 thoughts on “Hiking the Dragon’s Tail: Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

  1. Wow, what a fantastic place to go for a hike. I loved exploring Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço while visiting Madeira as this coastal track takes you along a narrow stretch of rugged coastline to the most eastern point of Madeira Island and offers a number of stunning viewpoints, which highlights the volcanic erosion over millions of years throughout the coastline. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

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